| ERASING with BLU-TACK - part 1 |
| Erasing is
an art in itself and successful erasing is never easy. Just
for the moment leave aside your hard rubbers, soft art erasers
and kneadable putty rubbers while I introduce you to my favourite
ERASER..... |
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Erasing
with Putty?
This is not a putty rubber as you
know it... Be prepared to have your technical illusions
shattered - my preferred eraser (almost my only eraser) is
not an eraser at all... but it is a tool of unsurpassed excellence!
We know it here in the UK as "Blu-Tack" -
the non-sticky putty that is used for fixing posters to walls.
Yes, that's right, this stuff is God's own gift to graphite
artists - and probably works as well with charcoal and pastel.
Years ago I bought a batch of putty rubbers (kneaded
erasers) that broke up in use and, in desperation, I grabbed
a piece of Blu-Tack I've used virtually nothing else since.
This "eraser" is so versatile that I still
haven't exhausted its range of uses! But beware - there
are similar products, generically known as "Wall Putties",
but only Blu-Tack possesses the qualities we need. |
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The
Eraser in use: Blu-Tack possesses
two qualities not found in Putty Rubbers - an enhanced ability
to be readily formed into any shape and an all-important inherent
tackiness. And one undesirable but not insurmountable
property - it's tendency to become soft and sticky when held
in the hand for any length of time. This is easily overcome
by employing two balls of the magic putty so that one is always
cool and available for immediate use.
An Eraser is not a Rubber: Hard rubbers
rub, they do little more than force graphite deep into the
paper. "Art erasers" and putty types remove
graphite more softly but, as they still require a dragging
movement to achieve results, a degree of graphite "staining"
usually results. But Blu-Tack, as a result of its sticky
nature, removes every grain of graphite without any detrimental
movement. It's a graphite magnet! A quick downward
touch embeds the grains for immediate and clean lifting.
Cleaning the Eraser: In
time, as the Blu-Tack eraser takes in more and more graphite,
it will cease to be as efficient. However most of the
graphite is merely embedded in its surface and just requires
dilution by distributing it throughout the eraser. Taking
the ball of putty in one hand, simply pull off small pieces
or stretch it out into a long length - now roll the whole
thing up again and knead it back into a ball. This eraser
is a miser's dream... it will last for months!
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Lightening tone: Never
again will you feel afraid of over-darkening an area of your
drawing. The day has arrived when you can load an area
with as much graphite as you want because you now have the
means to remove it if you need to. The following
technique can be applied to any area of tone that you require
to be a little (or a lot) lighter. This is where rubbers
are useless and normal erasers will let you down - neither
can remove half a layer of graphite without disturbing the
remainder beneath. This Eraser can! Roll the putty
into a cylinder with as smooth a face as possible (try rolling
it on your drawing board). Now gently roll the cylinder
over the area to be lightened and repeat as required. With
a little practice you will soon become proficient and will
be able to lower a complete area from in-your-face
to ghostly!... and
without affecting the detail! For small areas just rock
your eraser on your drawing board to form a curved flat then
rock that in turn on your drawing. This technique allows
total control over the subtlety of, for example, a misty scene
- draw it with ease using a greater strength and a wider range
of contrasts than is required then use your eraser to progressively
"fade" as required. |
| Complete
Erasure: Try this out for yourself
and follow the steps I took below:
1: Take a piece
of your usual drawing paper (I prefer Ivorex card) and generously
apply a saturated coating of 6B or similar to a small area.
A harder grade will do but it has to be one that you
know a regular eraser will smear and not remove.
2: Roll a cylinder of your Blu-Tack eraser over the
area. This will remove all the surface graphite.
3: Continue rolling until the eraser (which you might
need to clean at some stage)...
4: has removed as much graphite as it possibly can.
The graphite is removed in ever decreasing amounts so
persevere. Don't worry that the coated eraser may deposit
graphite back onto your paper - it just doesn't happen!
5: Remember when I said the eraser "removes every
grain of graphite...and embeds the grains for immediate and
clean lifting"? Well, that's in an ideal world
the very act of drawing will have pushed some graphite a
little too far into the paper for the putty to reach so now
(and only now) reach for your soft art eraser and rub out
the final remnants. |
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The
Blu-Tack is better than I even thought it would be...I'm still
amazed at how that light touch will pick up the graphite.
It's great!!!! Toby Levin, USA. |
| TOP TIP
Don't blend graphite with your fingers - don't touch the paper
surface at all! Natural grease from your skin will indelibly
alter any touched area and affect the way that graphite adheres
to it. This is particularly noticeable (and distracting)
if the area is within an expanse of flat or graduated tone
- more graphite will adhere to the greasy area and always
appear darker.
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All
text content and images copyright ©
2002-2003 M J Sibley Dip.A.D.
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